Editorial: Berlin’s new position

Fashion Weeks / Technology

There’s been an ongoing discussion about Berlin Fashion Week and its identity. On this note, should fashion and technology rub shoulders even more?

 

The discussion about Berlin’s creative identity is as old as 2003, when the city started showing fashion with its first Bread & Butter. Does it have one? Does it need one? And where does Berlin stand in relation to all the established hubs such as London, Milan or Paris?

It wasn’t the first time that the Berlin date clashed with a fashion week in another city, this January the mens shows in Paris. Where this has led to frustration in previous years, this season, some of the relevant editors moved straight to the front rows in Paris without hesitation. And, traditionally, brands who want to make it internationally show their collections there anyway (current example: GmbH). The fashion world order with Paris at its centre is still in place.

 

 

And now, since Bread & Butter has become a show for end consumers and the IMG tent is gone, the importance of Berlin Fashion Week seems to diminish, at least in the perception of the international eye. In some calendars Berlin doesn’t even appear as fashion week anymore but as market week.

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Repositioning a brand: ”You build your reputation, even if it’s just a small one, but it can crumble and this is what you fear“ says designer Goetze

Design & Product / PR & Sales

The image and reputation of emerging brands are fragile. A repositioning can be dangerous. At Berlin based label Goetze they took the risk and tell us how it went

 

It is becoming increasingly difficult to establish a new brand in times when most relevant names are backed by corporate heavy-weights like Kering or LVMH. All the more difficult must it be to decide to re-position a still young and emerging brand whose reputation is still fragile.

Berlin based menswear label Goetze did just that. It was founded by Sissi Goetze in 2011 and in 2015 she decided to take a break to reflect and re-think. Lars Paschke is Associate Professor for Fashion Design at the Universität der Künste in Berlin and also friends with Goetze. He is her support when it comes to strategic development and image direction.

In this conversation, Goetze and Paschke tell us which changes have worked, which haven’t and whether the relaunch was a success.

(Title image spring summer 18)

 

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London Fashion Week Mens: Recap

Fashion Weeks

What London designers think you should wear next winter (2018/19). Be advised, here’s what they definitely want you to throw over board: skinny pants and every cliché you’ve acquired about masculinity.

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Ecoalf founder Javier Goyeneche on recycling fabrics: ”We clean up waste – we don’t burn any more resources“

Design & Product / Technology

Recycling fabrics is a good start to produce clothes that are more sustainable. However, there’s more steps in the value chain that need to be re-thought. Founder of label Ecoalf Javier Goyeneche is doing just that.

 

Last Wednesday, the Madrid based label opened their first German store in Berlin – of course, in an eco-friendly building with recycled materials. The sourcing for the product starts on coasts around the world where Goyeneche asks fishermen to bring back the waste that gets caught in their nets. This is how waste that otherwise would go back into the sea is brought back to life and ends up as jackets and bags in stores like La Rinascente, KaDeWe or Lane Crawford.

Javier Goyeneche talks to HFT about re-imagining the value chain, giving up margin and fighting windmills.

(Looks in header image from a collaboration with designer Sybilla)

 

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Dash magazine’s NoéMie Schwaller: „It’s illustration which captures our gaze“

History / Publishing

London-based Dash magazine celebrates fashion illustration as an art form. Editor-in-chief NoéMie Schwaller talks us through significant pieces of their archive

The diffusion of an image of a new collection usually starts at the end of a catwalk. A professional photographer takes a picture that is then sent off to newspapers, magazines, bloggers and PR agencies. In addition, since the introduction of the smartphone and social media, the same looks are being posted through various other channels, only from a different angle. The result: We basically see the same pictures over and over again.

A fashion illustration on the other hand has its origins in the brain of an artist, and thus, becomes so much more than only the depiction of a runway look.

NoéMie Schwaller is co-founder of the London based magazine Dash which is dedicated to the journalistic genre of fashion reporting and illustration as an art form. „In this visually saturated and fast-lived world, it’s illustration which captures our gaze for longer than any snapshot does“, she says.

 

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Illustration by Mats Gustafson

 

A fashion illustration can do what a mere picture of a runway look cannot: it reflects a point of view and becomes commentary rather than an objective report. An illustrator can lead our focus to what he or she believes is the point of an entire collection by exaggerating it or leaving out the less important bits: maybe it’s the silhouette that is more important than the colours or the fluidity of a fabric that is more telling than its texture.

We asked Schwaller to dig in her archives to discuss why she loves fashion illustration so much, why they are important and which ones touch her the most.

(Illustrations in header: François Berthoud (left) and Cecilia Carlstedt (right))

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