„The look sets the target of who I want to be“ — The Moment: CHANG13°

Photo & Styling / the Moment

Fashion designer and performer CHANG13° about gender, not wanting to make a decision and what clothes got to do with it


Writing the introduction to this interview is proving to be the most difficult introduction I ever had to write. Because writing an introduction is about giving a direction. It gives the reader a category, something to hold on to — it tells them what to expect. It is about putting things in boxes.

So I’m trying to do that as little as possible because this piece is about not having to put things into boxes and not having a definite answer for every question.




Which still leaves me with the problem of introducing you to the star of this edition of The Moment — HFT’s new series in which we explore what happens with our identity the moment that we get dressed.

Let’s try a non-exhaustive list of keywords: Chang-Zun-Gabriel-Pierre-Chanel Chung is our star’s given name, he was born in South Korea but has lived in Cologne for most of his life, he is a fashion designer and performer, he loves Madonna and Voguing — and his current topics are gender, identity and letting go of the pressure of having to make a decision.


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”Gloria is a lot more daring“ — introducing The Moment: Gloria Viagra

Photo & Styling / the Moment

What happens with us and our identity when we get dressed? In HFT’s new series The Moment we investigate the instant we put on our clothes. In this premiere we learn that we can become a little bolder, while watching Berlin drag queen Gloria Viagra getting ready for the night in our first ever video production


We all do it every day — we get dressed. Even though it is one of the most mundane activities, the decision about what we wear does have consequences. Too sexy for the office but not sexy enough for my date after? Do I dress at eye level with my clients (to show I’m an equal) or do I dress up (to signal my success)? Do I want to express that I’m up to speed with the latest trends — or do I ”not care“ because I worry about ”more important“ things than fashion? Even if we belong to the latter, we’re making a statement with what we put on our backs.

By means of our clothes we cannot only express ourselves, in reverse, they can also determine how we feel: a flowing bias cut dress will make us feel free to move, whereas a three piece suit almost forces us into a certain posture. In any case, our clothes are part of our identity and the way we communicate this identity to our peers and others.

In HFT’s new series The Moment we will be asking different people what happens in the very moment they get dressed. First up is Berlin drag queen Gloria Viagra. In a candid interview she tells about her first time in drag, whether she becomes a political figure the moment she puts on a frock and that Gloria has a little more guts than her male self Michel.



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Editorial: Berlin’s new position

Fashion Weeks / Technology

There’s been an ongoing discussion about Berlin Fashion Week and its identity. On this note, should fashion and technology rub shoulders even more?


The discussion about Berlin’s creative identity is as old as 2003, when the city started showing fashion with its first Bread & Butter. Does it have one? Does it need one? And where does Berlin stand in relation to all the established hubs such as London, Milan or Paris?

It wasn’t the first time that the Berlin date clashed with a fashion week in another city, this January the mens shows in Paris. Where this has led to frustration in previous years, this season, some of the relevant editors moved straight to the front rows in Paris without hesitation. And, traditionally, brands who want to make it internationally show their collections there anyway (current example: GmbH). The fashion world order with Paris at its centre is still in place.



And now, since Bread & Butter has become a show for end consumers and the IMG tent is gone, the importance of Berlin Fashion Week seems to diminish, at least in the perception of the international eye. In some calendars Berlin doesn’t even appear as fashion week anymore but as market week.

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Repositioning a brand: ”You build your reputation, even if it’s just a small one, but it can crumble and this is what you fear“ says designer Goetze

Design & Product / PR & Sales

The image and reputation of emerging brands are fragile. A repositioning can be dangerous. At Berlin based label Goetze they took the risk and tell us how it went


It is becoming increasingly difficult to establish a new brand in times when most relevant names are backed by corporate heavy-weights like Kering or LVMH. All the more difficult must it be to decide to re-position a still young and emerging brand whose reputation is still fragile.

Berlin based menswear label Goetze did just that. It was founded by Sissi Goetze in 2011 and in 2015 she decided to take a break to reflect and re-think. Lars Paschke is Associate Professor for Fashion Design at the Universität der Künste in Berlin and also friends with Goetze. He is her support when it comes to strategic development and image direction.

In this conversation, Goetze and Paschke tell us which changes have worked, which haven’t and whether the relaunch was a success.

(Title image spring summer 18)


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London Fashion Week Mens: Recap

Fashion Weeks

What London designers think you should wear next winter (2018/19). Be advised, here’s what they definitely want you to throw over board: skinny pants and every cliché you’ve acquired about masculinity.

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