Armour and shelter — a new purpose for our clothes? London Fashion Week Mens

Design & Product / Fashion Weeks

In today’s cities, life is dense and our personal space extends into the public space. At London Fashion Week Men’s many collections revolved around utility and protection

 

It is said that more than half of the world’s population live in cities rather than rural areas — and it’s getting more. You can get a little taster of what this feels like when you’re in London, a city where every hour is rush hour. Life in cities is dense. Our personal space becomes smaller because of continuously increasing rents and we share public spaces and transport with more and more people. 

 

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A-Cold-Wall spring summer 2019

 

Our commutes become longer because life in the centre of cities becomes unaffordable and, therefore, we’ll spend more time on trains. This is where we do our nails in the morning and where we watch our favourite show on the phone on our way back home. Our lives don’t just become more claustrophobic, they also extend into public space. 

Sometimes I find myself reminiscing about ”the old days“. My preferred decade of fashion lies between the mid 70s and mid 80s. Everybody wanted to be chic. Women wore pencil skirts and clutches, men had a sports jacket effortlessly hanging off their shoulder. Not only does that make me sound old. It’s also a fantasy of times past.

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”I want to create something personal“ — new talent: Teddy Glickman

Design & Product

Introducing designer Teddy Glickman who moved from SoCal to Berlin and needed a coat — and launched his own fashion brand for men

 

When you first meet Teddy Glickman you can’t help an instant crush. He is young and has a velvety voice. He takes his time to speak which gives him an air of masculinity that is rare to find in a 27-year old. Not surprisingly, his own appearance reflects his approach to clothes, which have a certain softness without being feminine. 

 

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Glickman has not yet given many interviews as a designer, however, the occasional glimpse of insecurity must not be misinterpreted as a lack of assertiveness about his work. Again, a reflection of his brand: although he is still figuring out what he wants it to be (which, at this stage, is totally okay, and we’re curious what’s next), one thing is for sure, he does have a voice — and he wants it to be personal. 

Meet Teddy Glickman who traded in Southern California for Berlin and, for obvious reasons, needed a coat. He decided to sew it himself because he couldn’t find one he liked (Glickman is a self-taught sewer, however, the finishing of his sample collection was close to impeccable) — the foundation for the brand of the same name which he launched in 2017. 

 

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„The look sets the target of who I want to be“ — The Moment: CHANG13°

Photo & Styling / the Moment

Fashion designer and performer CHANG13° about gender, not wanting to make a decision and what clothes got to do with it

 

Writing the introduction to this interview is proving to be the most difficult introduction I ever had to write. Because writing an introduction is about giving a direction. It gives the reader a category, something to hold on to — it tells them what to expect. It is about putting things in boxes.

So I’m trying to do that as little as possible because this piece is about not having to put things into boxes and not having a definite answer for every question.

 

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Which still leaves me with the problem of introducing you to the star of this edition of The Moment — HFT’s new series in which we explore what happens with our identity the moment that we get dressed.

Let’s try a non-exhaustive list of keywords: Chang-Zun-Gabriel-Pierre-Chanel Chung is our star’s given name, he was born in South Korea but has lived in Cologne for most of his life, he is a fashion designer and performer, he loves Madonna and Voguing — and his current topics are gender, identity and letting go of the pressure of having to make a decision.

 

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”Gloria is a lot more daring“ — introducing The Moment: Gloria Viagra

Photo & Styling / the Moment

What happens with us and our identity when we get dressed? In HFT’s new series The Moment we investigate the instant we put on our clothes. In this premiere we learn that we can become a little bolder, while watching Berlin drag queen Gloria Viagra getting ready for the night in our first ever video production

 

We all do it every day — we get dressed. Even though it is one of the most mundane activities, the decision about what we wear does have consequences. Too sexy for the office but not sexy enough for my date after? Do I dress at eye level with my clients (to show I’m an equal) or do I dress up (to signal my success)? Do I want to express that I’m up to speed with the latest trends — or do I ”not care“ because I worry about ”more important“ things than fashion? Even if we belong to the latter, we’re making a statement with what we put on our backs.

By means of our clothes we cannot only express ourselves, in reverse, they can also determine how we feel: a flowing bias cut dress will make us feel free to move, whereas a three piece suit almost forces us into a certain posture. In any case, our clothes are part of our identity and the way we communicate this identity to our peers and others.

In HFT’s new series The Moment we will be asking different people what happens in the very moment they get dressed. First up is Berlin drag queen Gloria Viagra. In a candid interview she tells about her first time in drag, whether she becomes a political figure the moment she puts on a frock and that Gloria has a little more guts than her male self Michel.

 

 

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Anatomy of a fashion show: Henrik Vibskov at Paris Fashion Week

Design & Product / Fashion Weeks / Photo & Styling / PR & Sales

From invite to backstage to the actual show: follow How Fashion Ticks to Paris to see Henrik Vibskov’s inspiring collection for autumn winter 18/19

 

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An invitation to a Henrik Vibskov presentation is not just an invitation to a runway show. It is rather an invitation to follow the designer on his journey, to take a peek inside his brain, to understand where he’s coming from an where he wants to go with his latest collection.

For autumn winter 18/19 Vibskov was inspired by a piece of art that he saw on one of his travels in Japan. From the printed invite to the actual show – every detail is designed to convey the designer’s vision. Let’s see how it unravels, from the end to the beginning.

 

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